Tired of skincare advice that sounds recycled? Drink more water, protect it from the sun, don’t stress too much! That’s all helpful, but it doesn’t give you much direction. To keep that skin looking fresh and youthful it is important to understand aging.
Skin doesn’t age (or stop aging) due to products, genetics, or following trends. There is a lot of physics, chemistry, and cellular biology involved and it’s often happening in real time on the surface of your body.
If you understand these mechanisms, it is important to adopt everyday habits that keep your skin fresh and youthful. It’s also much easier to incorporate them into your daily routine. Here are five ideas you can start with today;
Photons, Not Time, Age Your Skin
Most people associate aging with the calendar. If you ask an expert dermatologist the first thing they will tell you about is the effect of ultraviolet radiation on your skin. Over time, light exposure can set in motion certain DNA changes called thymine dimers.
While your cells are forever working to repair and replace them, the process isn’t always 100% perfect. Over decades these microscopic lesions alter collagen structure. They cause that hyperpigmentation you tend to notice over time.
This doesn’t mean you run indoors and vow to never come out. It just means you need to be mindful of the fact that your skin is photosensitive and invest in good quality sunscreen. Mineral sunscreens with zinc oxide are great as they offer protection without feeling heavy. UVA wavelengths can penetrate glass so don’t forget to wear sunscreen indoors too!
Protecting Your Skin Microbiome
Yes, although invisible, your skin microbiome exists and it is vastly important. It helps regular inflammation, maintain your skin’s acidic pH, and defends against pathogens. When disturbed you might notice dryness, irritation, or early signs of aging.
So, what affects the skin microbiome? One of the biggest culprits is overwashing. Too many cleanses per day can strip the skin of natural lipids and create instability within your skin microbiome. On the other hand if you avoid washing the face, pollutants can clog the pores and cause acne.
The ideal solution is following a twice-a-day routine and using a low-pH cleaner (aim for around 5.0-5.5). This reduces inflammation and also supports beneficial bacterial species.
Hydration Is Chemistry
Hydrated skin has a very different chemical profile when compared to dehydrated skin. When the outermost layer of the epidermis lacks moisture, the epidermal cells that produce keratin send out “help” signals. These trigger inflammation even before you can see dryness. The inflammation then turns on enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases which begin breaking down collagen.
In other words, if your skin is perpetually dehydrated, it is going to age faster. An easy practice that works is utilizing moisturizers with three kinds of ingredients;
- Glycerin or hyaluronic acid: These are humectants which draw water into the upper layers.
- Ceramides or fatty acids: Emollients which can fill microscopic gaps between the skin cells.
- Squalane or petrolatum: Occlusives that seal moisture in place.
No need to pile on heavy layers. Just use the right molecules for your environment. If you live in a humid climate, humectants are enough. However, if your skin is exposed to a lot of dryness then occlusives are important.
Why Are Retinoids So Popular?
Skincare trends have come and gone, but retinoids have survived decades of scientific scrutiny. They are unique because they instruct cells to behave differently.
Retinoids speed up how quickly the cells renew. They also push the fibroblasts to make new collagen and slow down enzymes that normally break the collagen apart.
If you want to incorporate retinoids in your routine, begin with low-strength retinol a few nights per week and increase gradually observing your skin’s response. If introduced too quickly, you may notice irritation, so try to take it slow.
Restoring Skin Health with Sleep
Did you know that your body actually activates certain repair systems during sleep that it keeps dormant otherwise. At night, DNA repair enzymes increase activity. Additionally, the growth hormone is also absorbed regenerate tissue at a faster rate.
It is important to treat chronic sleep problems as in the long run a perpetual lack of sleep can cause wrinkles and dull skin.
Aim for 7-9 hours of sleep in a cool, dark room. Have a short skincare routine in the evening and spend your time catching up on your beauty sleep.
Youthful Skin Comes from Biology
Elaborate routines aren’t going to get you the skin of your dreams. You need simple habits that consider your skin’s biological make-up.
If you feel like you struggle with a unique skin problem that fails to resolve on its own, such as extreme dryness or cystic acne, it is important to visit a top-rated dermatology clinic and consult a dermatologist who can give you the advice you need. The more you let skin issues fester the worse they may get down the line!
